How to sew an exposed zipper


Dreamer! In today’s post, we share this step-by-step tutorial to learn how to place and sew an exposed zipper. Check the details below.

By applying it this way the teeth, also known as elements, are visible on the front of the garment. This type of application is very useful to help us enhance our garments in special designs.

In addition, you don’t need to add seam allowances to apply it.

If you are just starting in the world of sewing, this step-by-step guide will be of great help, remember that practice makes perfect.

So let's get to work!

If you have never sewn a zipper before, we recommend you to perfectly follow this step-by-step where we show you the basic placement of the zipper, and it may clarify some doubts.

To make this zipper application you need…


  • The piece where you are going to put the zipper
  • Zipper, for this example we used a 15 cm metal zipper.
  • The zipper presser foot
  • Ruler
  • Thread
  • Pins
  • Sewing machine and basic sewing machine equipment…

Step 1

The first thing to do is to mark the center of your garment, and on this line measure the length of the zipper.

  • In this case we will place a zipper of 6in.

Measure 6” from the seam allowance of the garment and place another mark 1/2” upwards.

Step 2

Carefully cut along the center of the piece, from the edge of the neckline to the first mark.


Make a 45° cut on both sides, following the diagram to make the correct cuts.

When finished you will have a small triangular cut in the center.

Step 3

Next mark a ¼” or 5 mm seam allowance on the edges of the cut you just made in the center and iron them to the back of the fabric.


Step 4

Place the front of the zipper spliced to the front of the fabric and align the top of the zipper with the mark we traced at 6″, sew and flip the zipper right side out.


Place the right side of the zipper facing it with the right side of the fabric; sew and turn the zipper right side out.

Step 5

Fold the 5 mm seam allowance you left on the sides of the opening to the back of the fabric. With the zipper closed, pin the edges of the opening so that they are close to the zipper without covering it.

  • Note: Make sure the zipper slider is just below the neckline seam allowance.

Use your zipper presser foot and start sewing from the bottom of the zipper toward the neckline.

Place a backstitch at the edge of the fabric, very close to the zipper teeth, and sew along the right side of the garment.

And that's it!

You have now learned how to place an exposed zipper, this is a variation of the center lined zipper and the technique is very easy to do on a machine.

Besides the fact that the teeth of the zipper are visible, it can become one more decoration of your garment and you can apply it to sweaters, jackets, sweatshirts or blouses, whatever you can think of.

Practice several times to achieve an excellent finish.

Also we invite you to check other applications and tips for sewing zippers on another posts on our blog.

We hope you liked this post, and it inspire you to create new projects with this zipper application.

Thanks for reading us! If you have any questions or trouble, don’t doubt and please write them in the comment box!

We will glad to help you!

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See you in another post. Bye for now!

Published by 123 Dream it!

Everything about sewing and embroidery. Ideas, tutorials, step-by-step sewing videos, tips, DIY and much more. Let's share creativity and technique!

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